We awoke to find that our miracle socks were not as advertised: they hadn't prevented us from getting blisters. After a short hobble to the kitchen for a hearty breakfast, we strapped on our bags and proceded to begin our first "proper" day's walking. The day was hot - steaming hot - and we later regretted not covering ourselves sufficiently in suntan lotion. Although not exaclty undulating, the terrain was getting increasingly hilly, which I actually appreciated as an pleasant alternative to the monotonous trudge along the flat river the day before.
As the day drew on, we began to realise that we hadn't prepared our bodies well enough for the task ahead. As we trudged over hills, knees and feet began to ache under the weight of our bags, which had been further loaded with gallons of water to see us through the heat. This was when we first met the Luminous Brigade - an army of 100 charity walkers. The lucky sods only carried day packs with them, as their full gear was taken between stops by the organisers. Nice, comfy stops in hotels and B&Bs. I hated the Luminous Brigade.
Our own stop that night was at the Riverside Campsite by Chollerford Bridge. Although planned to have a shower and toilet block, all that existed at the time of our visit was a nicely mown patch of grass and a tap. The tap was connected to a long rubber hose, which made all the water taste of rubber, which was a nice touch.
That day I was crippled. My blisters were reachign their zenith, and if I stopped walking my legs completely seized up. Fortunately (as it turned out) we walked the 10mins to the pub up the road, which was probably a good warm down.